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| General Discussion General Toyota Diesel related discussion |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Airdrie, Alberta.
Posts: 21
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Have any of you cold climate Surf owners had to install a bock heater? My '90 doesn't have one, but it's chinooking here right now so I keep forgetting to look and see how much of a pain it will be. I'll remember when the next cold front blows in, but if you can share your experience I'd appreciate it.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: vancouver or calgary
Posts: 349
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its not that hard to do. remove starter knock out frost plug put it back together. last time it was cold here mine started to leak.. replaced it a while ago when it was warm did it in a pile of snow.
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89 4runner, 2LT diesel swap, solid axle swap, front mount intercooler, exhaust, fuel tank mounted in the rear. 85 Toyota longbox utility trailer. 88 toyota supra: 1jzgte swap, boosting 15psi |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: BC
Posts: 146
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be careful on the "knock out frost plug" part. There are a couple ways to make sure it does not fall into the block once knocked loose. I simply use a strong magnet (used for getting dropped bolts out of hard to reach places) and hold it on the surface of the frost plug until i can get pair of vice grips onto the edge of it. I am told that if you bang it on one side you might be able to get it to spin in the hole exposing one edge for grabbing and pulling out. I have also heard that you could drill a hole in it and screw a screw into it and then pull it out with some sort of slide hammer setup. I simply use the magnet and bang it into the block. Then while the magnet holds it from falling inside i get a vice grips on one edge and then use a screw driver to deform it enough till it can be pulled out. Try not to damage the edge of the hole with the screwdriver as this will be the sealing surface for the new blockheater O riing. If it were to fall inside i am not sure what would be involved in getting it back out. In my experience it seems as though there is not much room for it to actually fall into. It is the frost plug behind the starter. Remove the wheel well mud shield to allow access to the starter with the tire removed.
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1979 Cadillac Eldorado, 5.7 totally rebuilt Diesel: 1989 Chevy Blzer, 6.2 Diesel: 1992 Toyota Hilux 3L;) |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Airdrie, Alberta.
Posts: 21
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Thanks, I'm gonna try to make it through the winter without it. My timing belt is due to be changed too so I'll do it all in one shot when the weather is warm.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: saskatchewan
Posts: 43
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Is a tight fit, but it will go!
Just wait until your cylinder head cracks, and do it then. WAY EASIER! ![]() ![]()
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#6 |
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Site Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Eastern Washington State - USA
Posts: 1,509
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From the pics you could have more room if you used the SECOND freeze plug from the back. Theoretically this would give more coolant exposure opportunity to the heating elements, too. This is where I have scheduled to install my block heater.
Wait until you rebuild your engine and have it out on a stand, and it's even easier. ![]() --Radio
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1985 2L-T 4x4 Longbed, PROJECT ON HOLD AGAIN whilst I pay medical bills. In hand and in progress: Sky Hi-Steer; FROR FF rear axle/disc brake conversion
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#7 |
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Site Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Vancouver Isand
Posts: 1,856
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One thing about those nice cast brass block heaters is they seem to come with a cheesy brass screw to hold them in. I changed that for stainless steel, so I couldn't strip the threads while doing it up - or later.
My impression, and it's only my impression was that my heater worked better when it was in the rearmost hole, behind the starter. That was comparing the 87 2LT with a 91 Surf though. Toyota used to put them in the rearmost hole when they fitted them to new trucks and I doubt they would have done that without a reason as it took longer and cost more. Unless of course the water passages in the 2LTE are different?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbert_Akroyd_Stuart So, why do we call it a "Diesel" when he didn't invent it? |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Camas Washington
Posts: 29
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Where do you find a block heater to fit the hole? I have an L engine being rebuilt. Are they fairly universal?
Thanks |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: saskatchewan
Posts: 43
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NAPA 605-3250
Temro 310-0019 (400 watts) Temro 310-0024 (750 watts) |
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#10 |
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Site Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Eastern Washington State - USA
Posts: 1,509
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All part numbers and prices verified as of 10-Oct-2009. Freeze plug: 35mm.
Source / Part # / Wattage / Price NAPA Balkamp / BK 6053250 / 400 watts / $33.99 NAPA Altrom (?) / ATM 3100019 / 400 watts / $38.99 Temro Catalog / 3100108 / 400 watts / no NAPA listing Temro Catalog / 3100114 / 400 watts / no NAPA listing Temro Catalog / 3100024 / 750 watts / no NAPA listing ---------------------------------------------------------------- NAPA Engine Heater - Hot Pad - For Oil Pan or Trans, NOT BATTERY BK 7451145 (25 watt) Dimensions: 1" x 5" $16.49 BK 7451146 (50 watt) Dimensions: 2" x 5" $22.39 BK 7451147 (100 watt, 2-5QT) Dimensions: 4" x 5" $28.19 BK 7451148 (150 watt, 5-8QT) Dimensions: 4" x 5" $33.19 BK 7451149 (250 watt, 8-20QT) Dimensions: 4" x 5" $75.99 Listed as "Freeze Plug Type" but is a HOT PAD: BK 7451150 (500 watt, 20-35QT) Dimensions: 5.5" x 8.5" $89.59 ----------------------------------------------------------------- NAPA Engine Heater - Oil Dip Stick BK 8135150 (90 watt) $17.99
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1985 2L-T 4x4 Longbed, PROJECT ON HOLD AGAIN whilst I pay medical bills. In hand and in progress: Sky Hi-Steer; FROR FF rear axle/disc brake conversion
Last edited by Radio; 10-10-2009 at 07:00 PM. |
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